Dunhuang (敦煌), Gansu ****

The city is a major tourist spot in China, due to its well preserved ancient Buddhist caves on the old Silk Road. It is surrounded by desert dunes and desert plains and the arrival at the train station offers a gorgeous feeling of emptiness. The city is not big but gives a nice relaxed feeling, with one tourist night market, one food market and a nice mosk (to check from outside). Most tourist spots are outside the city.

The Mogao caves (or grottoes) are freaking expensive, and you get to see only 6 or 7 caves with your guide (but you can stay and follow any group after your guide left) in about 2 hrs, but they are great remains of Buddhist history – from the time it was introduced to China from India). Be careful to check the somewhat annoying schedule, with a long lunch break during which the caves are closed.

For the Mingsha Shan oasis (the desert dunes are much more interesting but still surrounded by a fence), they charge a prohibitive 120 RMB, which you can easily escape by going through a backdoor/hole in the fence. The trick is largely described on several websites so I won’t go through it. Just to say quickly, the hole is very near the Youth Hostel on the side of Mingsha Shan entrance. There are other scenic spots around Dunhuang (>50kms away), but we chose not to go because of time/money limit and the negative comments we read about them. For wine lovers, note that there is some wine produced in Dunhuang, especially icewine (I wouldn’t trust the local red/white wine makers).

There are buses and trains going from Dunhuang to Turpan (and planes going to major cities!), but I strongly suggest you to take the train if you can (on high demand, so it needs very early booking). The bus trip was awful for the first 6 hours (12hrs night trip) because there is basically no concrete road for half of the trip. Believe me, jumping 20 cm high, every 5 minutes, when you lay on your back trying to sleep is no fun. I hope they get rid of this bumpy road one day.

City bus 火车站-downtown: 8 RMB

Hotel LinYan: 132 RMB/night in downtown. ***. (booked onlinehttp://dhlyhotel.com/ )

Mogao caves: 160 RMB, 2hrs (remember to bring a flash light)  ****

Mingsha Shan: 120 RMB or free (we sneaked in through the back door) *****

Bus Dunhuang-Turpan: 160 RMB – one per day, 7pm.

 

Mogao caves                                                     Mingsha Shan (desert oasis)

 

A ciment yurt (near the sneaky way to Mingsha Shan)          Liangpi (a kind of noodles): delicious